How to Grow and Care For Goldfish Plant Indoors

Goldfish plants are proof that houseplants don’t have to be boring. Their playful flowers add personality to any space, and with the right care, they’ll bloom year after year. Keep reading to learn how to grow one successfully.

Light

These plants are a bit picky about their light. They really like it bright, but not harsh. Direct sun? Not a good idea; you’ll end up with scorched leaves. Near a window with filtered light is usually perfect.

Honestly, east or north-facing windows are kind of ideal since the light’s gentle in the morning. If you’re stuck with south or west windows, a sheer curtain works wonders. And if your place is just plain dark, LED shop lights or grow lights are a lifesaver—especially in winter.

If you’re using artificial lights, 12 to 14 hours a day should do it. Give the pot a quarter turn every week or so to keep things looking even. If your plant starts to look stretched out or floppy, it’s probably asking for more light.

Leaf color tells you a lot. Pale or yellow? Maybe too much sun. Stems getting long and floppy? Probably not enough. Move it around until it looks happy—sometimes it takes a little trial and error.

Soil

For indoor goldfish plants, the right soil really matters. You want something loose, airy, and that drains well—nothing too heavy or dense.

A mix of peat moss, perlite, and pine bark is a solid bet. Skip the garden soil from outside, though. It just gets compacted in pots and holds too much water for these guys.

Soil made for African violets actually works great here, since it’s fluffy and drains well. Just keep an eye on the moisture—let the top inch dry out before watering again.

A bit of organic matter in the mix keeps things light and gives the plant a little food. Swapping out the soil every couple of years keeps everything fresh and helps avoid problems.

Water

Goldfish plants aren’t too forgiving if you mess up the watering. Wait until the top inch of soil is dry before you reach for the watering can. Use water that’s room temp—cold water can be a shock to the roots.

They like their soil damp but not soggy. If you let them sit in water, root rot can sneak up fast. Always dump out extra water from the saucer.

A little extra humidity makes a big difference. If your place is dry, a shallow tray with stones and water nearby can help bump up the moisture around the plant without soaking the leaves.

They’re thirstier in spring and summer, so check the soil more often. Once winter hits, they slow down—back off on the watering.

Tap water can be a mixed bag with all the stuff in it. If you can, filtered water is a safer bet for long-term health.

Temperature And Humidity

Warm and steady is the name of the game here. Goldfish plants seem happiest with daytime temps in the 70-80°F range. At night, don’t let it dip below 60°F if you can help it.

If the temperature swings around a lot, the plant gets stressed. Skip putting it near drafty windows or blasting heat vents. Consistency keeps the leaves looking good.

They’re also a bit finicky about humidity. Dry air can make the leaf edges crisp or curled. Aim for at least 50% humidity, maybe more if you can manage it.

Grouping plants together helps, or set a tray of water near the plant. Misting? It’s fine for a quick fix, but doesn’t last long. Humidifiers are a good investment if your place is dry all winter.

Fertilizer

During the growing season—think spring and summer—your goldfish plant will appreciate a little extra food. A balanced liquid fertilizer (10-10-10 or 20-20-20) works well.

Go easy: dilute to half strength and feed every two to four weeks. Too much fertilizer is worse than not enough; it can burn the roots. Once fall rolls around, stop feeding—growth slows way down and they just don’t need it.

If you’re into organics, fish emulsion or seaweed extract are gentle options. They break down slow and steady. Always water the plant before you fertilize, so you don’t fry the roots.

Watch for signs you’ve gone overboard, like burnt leaf edges or white crust on the soil. If that happens, flush the pot with water and dial back the feeding.

Propagation

Want more goldfish plants? It’s honestly pretty simple. Take stem cuttings from a healthy, mature plant—non-flowering stems with at least two leaf nodes are best.

Snip just below a node with a clean tool, strip the lower leaves, and pop the cutting into water or moist potting mix. Either way, roots usually show up in a few weeks.

Bright, indirect light is key for new cuttings. Direct sun is too much and dries them out. If you want to boost humidity, loosely cover the cutting with a plastic bag.

Once you see roots, move the cutting to a small pot with well-draining soil. Water lightly and give it a little support if needed. New leaves usually appear within a month or so.

Hold off on fertilizer until you see real growth. It’s smart to start a few cuttings at once—some won’t make it, but odds are at least one will take.

Pruning

A bit of regular pruning keeps goldfish plants looking their best. It helps them get bushier and keeps the shape tidy.

Grab clean, sharp scissors and snip back any stems that are getting too long or leggy. Dead or yellow leaves? Off they go.

Make your cuts just above a leaf node—new growth will sprout from there, making the plant fuller.

Try not to chop off more than a third at once. The plant needs a little time to bounce back between trims.

If you spot stems crowding each other, thin them out for better air and light flow.

Spring and early summer are the best times for pruning, since the plant is already in a growth spurt. That way, it recovers faster and pushes out fresh leaves.

Potting And Repotting

A pot with drainage holes is pretty much non-negotiable—you really don’t want soggy roots. Terracotta pots are a personal favorite because they breathe and let moisture escape.

Stick with a fresh, well-draining mix made for houseplants or tropicals. Regular garden soil just isn’t a good fit; it can bring in pests or get too heavy.

Repot when the plant seems cramped or growth slows down. Roots poking through the drainage holes or soil drying out super fast are signs it’s time. Usually, every couple of years is enough.

Go up just one pot size when repotting. Keep the root ball at the same depth, water it in, and let the soil settle.

Old soil gets compacted and doesn’t drain well, so swapping it out is good for root health. Plus, it’s a chance to check for any root rot or unwanted critters.

Common Problems & Troubleshooting

If your goldfish plant looks droopy, it’s probably a water issue—either too much or not enough. Always check the soil first. Soggy or totally dry soil stresses them out.

Brown tips? Usually that means the air’s too dry. Move the plant away from air vents, and try a pebble tray for extra humidity.

Yellow leaves can mean poor drainage or root rot. Double-check that your pot drains well and empty the saucer after watering.

Pale or tiny leaves are usually a sign of not enough light. Try moving the plant closer to a window with filtered sunlight.

Sticky spots or little bugs on the leaves? Could be aphids or mealybugs. Wash the plant gently with lukewarm water, and use insecticidal soap if needed.

Leaf drop often follows temperature swings or drafts. Try to keep the room temp steady and skip spots with cold breezes.

If you see wilting even when the soil is damp, the roots might be suffocating. Let the soil dry out a bit between waterings.

Slow growth is sometimes just a lack of nutrients. Feed with a balanced fertilizer monthly during spring and summer, but don’t overdo it.

Plant Varieties

There’s actually a handful of goldfish plant types you can grow indoors, and each one brings something different to the table. Some have wild, bright flowers; others have cool leaf shapes or colors.

Columnea gloriosa is the classic—it’s got those bright orange, fish-shaped blooms and shiny leaves, plus trailing stems that look great in hanging baskets.

Nematanthus gregarius is another one that gets called “goldfish plant.” It’s a bit more compact and the flowers are small and tubular—still fishy, just in a different way. Works well if you’re short on space.

Columnea microphylla keeps things interesting with smaller leaves and a really drapey, cascading habit. Give it the right care and it’ll bloom like crazy.

Some types have fuzzy leaves or reddish undersides, which adds a little extra flair if you’re into unique textures.

When you’re picking a variety, think about your space and what look you’re after. Each has its own vibe, and most will settle in just fine indoors.

Frequently Asked Questions

Lighting, watering, fertilizer, and temperature all play a role in how your goldfish plant does indoors. Figuring out how to propagate and troubleshooting leaf drop can save you some headaches.

What is the ideal lighting condition for an indoor goldfish plant?

Bright, indirect light is the sweet spot. Near a window with filtered sunlight is best. Too much direct sun burns the leaves, but not enough light means fewer blooms and slower growth.

How do you propagate a goldfish plant?

Take stem cuttings from healthy growth. Use sharp scissors, and root them in water or a clean, moist potting mix. You’ll usually see roots in two to four weeks.

What type of fertilizer should be used for a goldfish plant and how often?

A balanced, water-soluble fertilizer for houseplants is perfect. Feed every four to six weeks during active growth. Go easy—too much can damage the roots.

How frequently should a goldfish plant be watered?

Keep the soil lightly moist, letting the top inch dry out before watering again. Don’t overwater, or you’ll risk root rot. Underwatering leads to wilting or crispy leaves.

What are the common reasons for a goldfish plant’s leaves falling off?

Leaf drop can happen from sudden temperature changes, drafts, low humidity, or overwatering. Sometimes poor light or pests are the culprit. Fixing the cause usually helps the plant bounce back.

Can goldfish plants thrive indoors and what are their temperature requirements?

Honestly, goldfish plants seem pretty happy inside as long as you keep things between 65°F and 75°F. Try not to park them near chilly drafts or blasting heaters—those extremes just don’t do them any favors. If the temperature’s steady, you’ll probably notice better growth and, with any luck, a nice show of blooms.